20200124

on fashion & storytelling

Fashion Without Borders: Mapping the Transnational Threads of Sartorial Storytelling

organized by: Siobhan Mei, University of Massachusetts Amherst

Clothes, as fashion scholar Tanisha Ford  writes, serve as a “powerful social skin”. While the selection of what one wears is linked to taste and trends, clothes can also reflect one’s socioeconomic status, age, physical ability, gender, ethnicity, ancestry, and politics. In this way, clothes often function simultaneously as an assertion of one’s individual self and as a mode of publicly claiming community. Its historical role in the construction of identity situates fashion as unique within the material world and, as this seminar suggests, within literary cultures as well. The relevance of fashion to transnational literary studies is becoming increasingly obvious, particularly as fashion gains traction in the public sphere as a serious form of artistic expression. In particular, the ritual of dress as a narrative mode has emerged as a powerful approach for thinking about how individuals, especially those marginalized within a dominant culture, identify and form communities across (and in spite of) national, linguistic, and socioeconomic boundaries. For example, the conceptualization of the dressed body as narrative is central to the work of scholars such as Carol Tulloch (2008) and Tanisha Ford (2019) who trace the social and political contributions of Black women’s fashion to the formation of Afro-diasporic communities in the Americas and Europe. Non-fiction anthologies such as Women in Clothes (2014) and Worn Stories (2014) also emphasize the capacity of clothes to tell stories of the self. In the narratives in these anthologies, clothes often serve as markers of possibility—material methods for rewriting national definitions of what it means to be beautiful, to be politically visible, and to be human. This seminar seeks papers that explore the transnational possibilities of reading fashion in literature and welcomes topics such as: fashion as a global narrative mode, fashion and/in diasporic literatures, fashion in the archives, the representation of fashion within transnational feminist literatures, fashion as a site of political resistance in literatures of conflict, revolution, or social struggle, fashion and textuality, the role of fashion writing within transnational social movements, and the circulation/transformation of fashion styles or items in translated literatures. Bibliography: Ford, T. (2019). Dressed in Dreams: A Black Girl’s Love Letter to the Power of          Fashion. New York: St. Martin’s Press. Heti, S., Julavits, H., & L. Shapton (Eds.). (2014). Women in clothes. New York: Blue          Rider Press. Spivack, E. (2014). Worn Stories. Princeton: Princeton Architectural Press. Tulloch, C. (2008). The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives of the African Diaspora.          London: Bloomsbury Academic.


Friday, March 20, 2020
Stream A (8:30-10:15am)
Gleacher - Koppel Boardroom

"What's Inside?": Disorienting Interiorities & the Handbag
Laura Scroggs, University of Minnesota Twin Cities

Political Involvement Through Sartorial Discourse in Frances de Pontes Peebles’s The Seamstress
Stephanie Saunders, Capital University

Reading Wearable Walls: Rethinking Fashion
Vassiliki Rapti, Boston University
Zenovia Toloudi, Dartmouth College

“Reimagining the Fashion Archive: The Place of the Novel in Transnational Fashion Studies Research”
Jen Sweeney-Risko, Bard Early College-Cleveland

Saturday, March 21, 2020
Stream A (8:30-10:15am)
Gleacher - Koppel Boardroom

Fabricating Truths: Sartorial Self Fashioning and the Legacies of Enslavement
Kimberly Lamm, Duke University
Kimberly Lamm

Sartorial Storytelling: Feminist Translation and the Role of Fashion in Marie Chauvet's 'La Danse sur le volcan'
Siobhan Mei, University of Massachusetts Amherst

Setting the Tone: Slave Imagery in the Nineteenth-Century French Fashion Press
Lise Schreier, Fordham University

The Myth of the Tignon and the Invention of New Orleans
Jonathan Square, Harvard University


20200119

schedon

- Πέρασες καλά στις διακοπές [Σαμοθράκη];
- Σχεδόν τέλεια!
- Ε, το σχεδόν είναι που έχει σημασία.

Αλεξανδρούπολη, σύντομος διάλογος με gtroza, ~2000

happiness

"The early Greeks are continually held up to us in literary works as models of the healthy-minded joyousness which the religion of nature may engender. There was indeed much joyousness among the Greeks - Homer's flow of enthusiasm for the most things that the sun shines upon is steady. But even in Homer the reflective passages are cheerless, and the moment the Greeks grew systematically pensive and thought of ultimates, they became unmitigated pessimists. The jealousy of the gods, the nemesis that follows too much happiness, the all-encompassing death, fate's dark opacity, the ultimate and unintelligible cruelty, were the fixed background of their imagination. The beautiful joyousness of their polytheism is only a poetic modern fiction. They knew no joys comparable in quality of preciousness to those which we shall erelong see that Brahmans, Buddhists, Christians, Mohammedans, twice-born people whose religion is non-naturalistic, get from their several creeds of mysticism and renunciation.
Stoic insensibility and Epicurean resignation were the farthest advance which the Greek mind made in that direction. The Epicurean said: 'Seek not to be happy, but rather to escape unhappiness; strong happiness is always linked with pain; therefore hug the safe shore, and do not tempt the deeper ruptures. Avoid disappointment by expecting little, and by aiming low; and above all do not fret.' The Stoic said: The only genuine good that life can yield to a man is the free possession of his own soul; all other goods are lies.' Each of these philosophies is in its degree a philosophy of despair in nature's boons. Trustful self-abandonment to the joys that freely offer has entirely departed from both Epicurean and Stoic; and what each proposes is a way of rescue from the resultant dust-and-ashes state of mind The Epicurean still awaits results from economy of indulgence and damping of desire. The Stoic hopes for no results, and gives up natural good altogether. There is dignity in both these forms in resignation. They represent distinct stages in the sobering process which man's primitive intoxication with sense-happiness is sure to undergo."

William James [1842-1910], The Varieties of Religious Experience, p. 142

20200118

We are...

"..we are certainly not 'post-human' now - nor will ever be; that is because we were never precisely 'human' either (Foucault's essential insight) outside of a momentary, intense system of coercion. We are biological actualities, with open-ended and unknown capacities- arrays of matter in throes of individuation (Simondon). "

Interview with Sanford Kwinter, A Sensivite Matter, p.72, Scapegoat, issue 11: Life

soul

"Naturally we need to de-theologize the concept of soul but we also need to recover the ancient concept of the soul as movement of internal organization and interior experience. The ancients had clear access to many of these 'body states' that we have regrettably left behind, and they have conserved in the concept of the soul the principle of the responsive transformation...
...it deprived humans of a sense of their legitimate and imaginative mutability...
...The city after all is the realm of souls in endless instigation and foment."

mania

"The Greeks experienced mania as an uncontrollable invasion of ordinary states of mind, where powerful forces would take over or radically alter the personality. Such invasions could be thought as the wakeful analogue of dream experiences. "


Lawrence J. Hatab, Myth and Philosophy. A contest of Truths, p. 58

mana

"The world's capacity for uncommon power can be summed up in the general idea of 'mana,' an impersonal, even pre-theistic notion which refers not to a 'thing; but to the shaping of existential meaning within which things can be first located. Consequently, the sacred means the presence of mana, while the profane simply means the absence of mana. Moreover the sacred is no longer separated from the profane: it lies dormant within the profane and can show itself anytime or be invoked through a ritual."

Lawrence J. Hatab, Myth and Philosophy. A contest of Truths, p. 22

seeing

"The mythical criteria of efficacy and extraordinariness gave dreams a 'real' status. In fact their subsequent sacred nature often made them more important that conscious experiences. In Homer, for example, dreams are events in the world like any other which happen to the sleeper and which usually disclose crucial information. For the early Greeks, therefore, one does not 'have' a dream, one sees a dream."

Lawrence J. Hatab, Myth and Philosophy. A contest of Truths, p. 61

package power



Receiving this box of things reminded me that making art is a family project. The craft and recycling-based-art that comes with it is rare to find in Greek culture nowadays - but Sophie TOLOUDI owns it. Reading the names of recipients again and again on the multiple packages meant something - repetition and power, the power of names, or family power?


20200113

entelecheia

Οκτάνα θα πη η εντελέχεια εκείνη, που αυτό που είναι αδύνατον να γίνη αμέσως το κάνει εντέλει δυνατόν, ακόμη και την χίμαιραν, ακόμη και την ουτοπίαν, ίσως μια μέρα και την αθανασίαν του σώματος και όχι μονάχα της ψυχής.

Όχι Μπραζίλια, μα Οκτάνα. Ανδρέας Εμπειρίκος, 1965

Octana would be that perfection, that what is impossible to do immediately makes it possible, even chimera, even utopia, maybe one day and the immortality of the body, not just the soul.

No Brasilia, but Octana. Andreas Empirikos, 1965


Entelechy (entelechia) (Via Wikipedia)

Entelechy, in Greek entelécheia, was coined by Aristotle and transliterated in Latin as entelechia. According to Sachs (1995, p. 245):

Aristotle invents the word by combining entelēs (ἐντελής, "complete, full-grown") with echein (= hexis, to be a certain way by the continuing effort of holding on in that condition), while at the same time punning on endelecheia (ἐνδελέχεια, "persistence") by inserting "telos" (τέλος, "completion"). This is a three-ring circus of a word, at the heart of everything in Aristotle's thinking, including the definition of motion.

Sachs therefore proposed a complex neologism of his own, "being-at-work-staying-the-same".[17] Another translation in recent years is "being-at-an-end" (which Sachs has also used).[2]

Entelecheia, as can be seen by its derivation, is a kind of completeness, whereas "the end and completion of any genuine being is its being-at-work" (energeia). The entelecheia is a continuous being-at-work (energeia) when something is doing its complete "work". For this reason, the meanings of the two words converge, and they both depend upon the idea that every thing's "thinghood" is a kind of work, or in other words a specific way of being in motion. All things that exist now, and not just potentially, are beings-at-work, and all of them have a tendency towards being-at-work in a particular way that would be their proper and "complete" way.[17]

Sachs explains the convergence of energeia and entelecheia as follows, and uses the word actuality to describe the overlap between them:[2]

Just as energeia extends to entelecheia because it is the activity which makes a thing what it is, entelecheia extends to energeia because it is the end or perfection which has being only in, through, and during activity.

[2] Sachs, Joe (2005), "Aristotle: Motion and its Place in Nature", Internet Encyclopedia of Philosophy
[17] Sachs, Joe (1995), Aristotle's Physics: a Guided Study, Rutgers University Press

20200112

art forward


Viktor Vasarely, Tridem K, 1968

John Baier, Peinture Cellulosique, 1961

Pierre Soulages, Eau-forte no XVII, 1962

20200111

oktana

...η Νέα Πόλις θα ολοκληρωθή, θα γίνη. Όχι βεβαίως από αρχιτέκτονας και πολεοδόμους οιηματίας, που ασφαλώς πιστεύουν, οι καημένοι, ότι μπορούν αυτοί τους βίους των ανθρώπων εκ των προτέρων να ρυθμίζουν και το μέλλον της ανθρωπότητος, με χάρακες, με υποδεκάμετρα, γωνίες και «ταυ», μέσα στα σχέδια της φιλαυτίας των, ναρκισσευόμενοι (μαρξιστικά, φασιστικά, ή αστικά), πνίγοντες και πνιγόμενοι, να κανονίζουν.

Όχι, δεν θα κτισθή η Νέα Πόλις έτσι· μα θα κτισθή απ’ όλους τους ανθρώπους, όταν οι άνθρωποι, έχοντες εξαντλήσει τας αρνήσεις, και τας καλάς και τας κακάς, βλέποντες το αστράπτον φως της αντισοφιστείας —τουτέστι το φως της άνευ δογμάτων, άνευ ενδυμάτων Αληθείας— παύσουν στα αίματα και στα βαριά αμαρτήματα χέρια και πόδια να βυθίζουν, και αφήσουν μέσα στις ψυχές των, με οίστρον καταφάσεως, όλα τα δένδρα της Εδέμ, με πλήρεις καρπούς και δίχως όφεις —μά τον Θεό, ή τους Θεούς— τελείως ελεύθερα ν’ ανθίσουν.

Όχι Μπραζίλια, μα Οκτάνα. Ανδρέας Εμπειρίκος, 1965


“...the New City will be completed; it will be done. Not, of course, by architects and town planners, who, of course, believe, the poor fellows, that they can control in advance the human lives and the future of humanity, with rulers, measuring tapes, angles and T-squares […] as regulating narcissists, […] but it will be built by all people, when people […] let within their souls, in a delirium of assertion, all the trees of Edem […] totally free to blossom.”

Not Brazilia, but Oktana, Andreas Empeirikos, 1965

To read the full poem in Greek, please visit the LINK

ο φωτοφράκτης

...Και τώρα που άνοιξε και έκλεισε ο φωτοφράκτης σαν μάτι αδέκαστο και συνελήφθη ο χρόνος, ο ρεμβασμός αυξάνει την ζωή και δίδει στην κάθε εικόνα την κίνησι και την ευελιξία που φέρνει από τα βάθη μιας πηγής (της ιδικής του) ζεστό το πιο κρυφό της νόημα. Και ιδού που μεταλλάσσει πλήρως την εικόνα· από μια στατική στιγμή (ας πούμε καρφωμένη) την μετατρέπει σε πολυκύμαντον χορόν ωρών και πλαστικών σωμάτων ευρυθμίας, σε οντοποίησιν απτήν και ασπαίρουσαν παντός οράματος, πάσης επιθυμίας.

Ανδρέας Εμπειρίκος, 1960

And now that the shutter has been opened and closed as an unmistakable eye and the time has been captured, reclamation enhances life and gives every image the drive and flexibility it brings from the depths of a source (its own) warm, its most hidden meaning. And here it completely transforms the image; from a static moment (say, pinned) it transforms it into a multidimensional dance of hours and plastic bodies of eurythmia, in the realization of the tangible and all-seeing vision.

Andreas Empeirikos, 1960

To read the whole poem (in Greek) visit the LINK

20200105

Self-portrait of my father




Lately it has been all about production. “But do you have time to think?” he would ask me. George Toloudis, an architect, engineer, inventor, and a true artist (in talent, in heart, in mind, in exaggeration), would only need few items to think and create.

A table, a pencil, and paper (plain A4s, but other ones too such as leftover sheets from voting). And Greek cigarettes.

“Why (do you wish to make this project)?”


“What is an idea? An idea [for a project] cannot not be as abstract as in liberté -égalité -fraternité.”

”A man can do anything, even pass through a wall, if he wants.”

On materials and techniques...”The realization of an idea is interdependent to the economy.”


During the school years, it was these late evenings in the office, learning physics, testing new markers, drawing, making a school assignment. During the Aristotle years it was again late evenings, staying awake, drawing with ink, making compositions, models, resolving floor plans, talking about Zaha Hadid, making kinetic maquettes, finishing artifacts for exhibits, everything. During the IIT years it was all about the details, making it real, packages with hinges, minimal structures, endless Skype sessions, chit chat about Japanese & Indian friends, Ben Nicholson, Jackie Koo, Jeanne Gang and Martin, nonstop design, architecture with capital A.


Γεώργιος Τολούδης 07.04.1947-12.23.2018


During the Harvard years it was about making Picanico, asking so many Why, learning from Spiro, Kwinter, regular all-nighters, Skype support for dissertation, all kinds of support. During Dartmouth years it has been about constructing the magic, mr.Takis, real materials, big packages, Greece, Greeks, what would you teach?...


To be continued.


January 3, 2020


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